Buy WaterWorker HT-14HB Horizontal Pressure Well Tank, 14-Gallon Capacity, BlueWaterWorker HT-14HB Horizontal Pressure Well Tank, 14-Gallon Capacity, Blue Product Description:
- Designed to meet the requirements of, and are listed by the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) under ANSI/NSF Std 61
- The Butyl diaphragm has seamless construction and is designed to flex rather than stretch and crease like bladder tanks
- The polypropylene liner for the water reservoir will not flake, chip, crack or peel and does not impart taste and odor to the water
- Diaphragm, liner isolate water from contact with deep drawn steel domed shell - twice as strong as rolled steel shell of same thickness
- A high gloss enamel finish protects tank from the elements
Product Description
14 Gallon, Horizontal Precharged Water Tank, With Mounting Deck.
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Plug 'n' Play!
By DuncanG
Easily installed in a small, cramped space and does an excellent job of preventing a lot of pump cycling. Our application is in a supply system with a 5.5gpm 12v pump gravity fed from a 1500 gal tank to feed a kitchen, water closet, shower/bath, and two hand basin sinks. We will buy another, bigger one when we build the guest quarters, bath house and laundry room.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.Tank was exactly what I was looking for and at a great price to boot!
By Jeffrey Handshaw
Home Depot does not sell horizontal tanks, which are much easier to work with than vertical tanks since the connection is easily accessed on the side instead of buried underneath which also binds your plumbing between the feet of the tank making it next to impossible to replace a tank without destroying your existing plumbing and rebuilding it. You'd think the home handiman store, HD, would stock the easier for laymen to work with version?!?This tank was $20 cheaper than its vertical counterpart at HD, the shipping was free and there was no tax (another $10 savings)...luckily I was in a position to wait for it to be delivered (during which time I secured the necessary plumbing from HD.The only CON I had was that the most important specification, the pipe fitting size was missing from the info and the instructions, so I had to guess...luckily I had an unused (wasted money) 1" female to 1" female ball valve which was perfect to attach to the tank so that if I had to replace the pump at a later date, I could 'trap' a supply of water in the tank that could be later used to prime the new pump...cool...this was also fortuitous since HD does not stock the 1"threaded female to 1"female adapter that this tank need for a direct connection to 1" piping (male-threaded yes...which I had plenty of already)I already had an almost new pressure gauge in-line so all I needed to do was remove the old broken-bladder tank and cap off that 'run' with a 1" to 3/4"threaded cap and a 3/4" spigot (to bleed the system before sending the water homeward).I used the cold-water pressure relief valve (that HD no longer sells and are relatively expensive) from the old tank plumbing in my new plumbing (saving that cost as well), added another 3/4" spigot and plumbed it out, up, and back to the pump using a 1"1"1" T, and cutting into the vertical connection from the pump let me tighten it's connection back down before sealing the T in-line. It's actually quite fun doing this, like playing with tinkertoys (maybe I should get myself some tinkertoys).So for the do-it-yourself newby plumber here's an even more detailed description of what you need:Don't forget to bleed the necessary air out of the tank (I think that's why my last tank failed prematurely), this increases the tanks capacity and therefore saves your pump from unnecessary runs.You can mount your pump on top of this tank (some plumbers don't like this, however I'd recommend it)You need a roll of white Thread Sealing Tape (no sticky, just a thin white elastic tape)You need a can of purple primer...it perfectly cleans your piping and prepares it for the cementYou need a can of Regular PVC cement (Oatey gold can)You need a PVC pipe cutter...if yours is old, used and rusted consider a new one for a cleaner straighter cut.As I recommended above, control your tank with a 1"Ft x 1"Ft ball valve ("F" for female, "t" for threaded)Cover the 1" male tank threading with about 3 layers of Thread Sealing Tape in the same direction as the threading (clockwise) then attach the ball valve as tight as it will go then a little further to bring the valve around to the side.Put Thread Sealing Tape on the 1"Mt x 1"F and tighten that in as tight as possible to the other end of the ball valveTighten to the point that your other connection just begins to move.Prime one end of a small piece of 1" pvc pipe and the above adapter then glue both and insert pipe turning, hold for a bit......NEVER use the (cheaper) thin sprinkler pipe us the thicker PVC...the glue sets pretty quick, although with a pressure system you're best waiting an hour before turning on the pump...always prime and glue both connection points (warning purple primer is VERY staining)...use ample glue and be SURE you don't miss a spot...be messyfrom here you will need a couple of elbows and a T to get back to the pump and connect inline.after my first elbow up from the piping above I incorporated TWO 1"F x 1"F x 3/4"Ft Ts...One) I Thread Taped my cold-water pressure valve into (spraying upward...I figured if there was an over-pressure situation it might be from the pump running away and subsequently overheating, and maybe some spraying water might keep it from overheating some and save its life, if I catch it before it burns up)Two) I Thread Taped another 3/4" spigot inline (I'd used another one to cap off the old run to the old tank)...I recommend bronze spigots, since plastic ones (handles) have a tendency to become brittle in the sun and break.I cut the pump discharge pipe in the middle, then cut 1" more from it to make room for the Tplumbed in the T using a 'dummy' pipe to line it up with my tank plumbingThen carefully cut the dummy pipe to line up with the top Land then plumbed the top L from the tank to the T at the pumplet it set for a couple of hours(note: I've successfully NOT let it set at all with no leaks, but I just feel better giving the glue a good chance to completely dry in the absence of water)then opened the valves (don't open the valve to the house, if you have one)Turn on the pumpOpen one or both of the 3/4" spigots to clean out the loosened scum, glue and primer residue, and tank 'chemicals'turn off your 3/4" spigots to test the tank/pump to be sure it fills and the pump turns offOpen 3/4" spigot to be sure the pump comes back on after the tank empties.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.a good one
By D. Kirby
This tank is well built and works well. I've had it installed for my house for 6 mos. and not a hint of a problem. Nice to get one that performs as advertised.
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